Half a mile from Clos de l’Epinay the TGV from Paris hurtles through a mile-long tunnel built under the limestone plateau of the Vouvray vignoble. All is tranquil though at this walled clos, one of many in the appellation. Luc Dumange cultivates 16 hectares of chenin blanc, known here as blanc de Touraine or pineau de la Loire; his vines are tended following the guidelines for sustainable agriculture. Luc took over from his father in 2000 and produces a range of wine styles: dry, mediun dry, sweet, and some truly delicious sparkling wine. Natural viticulture and rigorous selection are complemented by modern methods: the winery is equipped with new stainless steel, thermo-regulated vats. Make sure you try the sparkling mousseux wines that come in three guises: dry, medium dry and rosé. An ideal aperitif wine – the Tradition has a perfumed, fresh aroma of citrus and apple. The Tête de Cuvée is more concentrated with a foamy mousse and a deep finish more suited to fine fish dishes cooked in the Loire’s version of a classic Champagne sauce.
Clos de l’Epinay, Vouvray.